Polonnaruwa | Sri Lanka

We visited Polonnaruwa when we were in Sigiriya. The city has a lot of history: being the second king city of Sri Lanka, having beautiful temples and being the home city of the Great King of Sri Lanka. If you’re looking for culture, you’ll definitely find it here!

I want to ride my bicycle!

Polonnaruwa is best explored by bike or Tuk Tuk. We wanted to ride the bike for fresh air and not to pollute the environment. The ruins are located in the old town so everything is close by.

Entrance: 25$ + 400 LKR to rent a bike

Warning: Once you enter the old town, you can’t just leave it to have a drink or food stop. Once you’ve left the old town, you have to buy a new entrance ticket to re-enter.

1) Archaeological Museum

Before we went into the ruins of Polonnaruwa, we visited the Archaeological Museum (next to the ticket office). The museum showed us what we were going to see with photos and scale models of the temples and buildings. This can be skipped if you don’t have enough time.

Temple Fact: We visited the city in the morning, so we could do an elephant safari in the afternoon at Kaudulla National Park.

2) Statue of Parakramabahu I

After our visit to the Archaeological Museum, we rode our bike to the Statue of Parakramabahu I. The statue is near the Potgul Vehera and is a stone sculpture of the Great King. So the second King (King Parakramabahu I) built many temples, buildings, parks, and even water reservoirs. Sri Lanka flourished under his reign. His successor tried to match these achievements but bankrupted the kingdom. In the 13th century, the city was abandoned and the capital moved to Colombo. The King city moved to Kandy. Make sure to visit Potgul Vehera when you’re at the statue.

3) Royal Palace of King Parakramabahu

We drove our bike to the ancient city and our first stop in the ancient city was the Royal Palace of King Parakramabahu. The palace used to have seven floors but due to a fire, only 2 floors are visible. Very impressive!

4) Royal bath

Wander around and you’ll find the Royal Bath where the king and queen took their baths. Next to the Royal Bath are ruins of the Queen’s changing room.

5) Audience Hall

The Audience Hall is quite good preserved. You can spot beautiful details such as carved elephants on the walls, lion statues, and moonstones that sparkle.

6) Vatadage Polonnaruwa

In the heart of the ancient city lies the sacred quadrangle (Vatadage, Hatadage, and Satmahal Prasada). This place used to be the home of the sacred tooth of Buddha which can be found in Kandy now.

The Vatadage is a circular relic house with a diameter of 18 meters. The Vatadage has 4 entrances that lead you to a central dagoba and 4 Buddhas. Make sure to check out the details! The Vatadage is just so beautiful!

Temple Fact: Cover your shoulders and knees! You also have to take off your shoes before entering a temple. Make sure to have some socks in your bag because the floor is lava!

7) Hatadage Polonnaruwa

Right in front of the Vatadage lies the Hatadage. This used to be the temple of the tooth relic. The tooth relic lies in Kandy now.

8) Satmahal Prasada

Next to the Hatadage is the Satmahal Prasada. This temple used to have 7 floors (the 7th floor is gone now). The temple is also built in a style that resembles the style used at the Angkor Wat Complex in Cambodia. I had a flashback to my trip there in 2018. On the left side of the Satmahal Prasada lies a stone with inscriptions. This is the Gal Potha and tells us the story of King Nissankamalla. The book of stone is 8 meters long.

9) Rankoth Vehera

The Rankoth Vehera (1187 AD) is one of the largest stupas in Polonnaruwa and is also the 4th largest in Sri Lanka. The stupa has a diameter of 170 meters, is 33 meters high and is entirely made out of bricks.

Ruin Fact: The ruins we see today are just 20% of the complex. 80% is still undiscovered and lies under the ground waiting to be discovered by an archeologist.

10) Gal Vihara

Our last stop in Polonnaruwa is the Gal Vihara. The road to Gal Vihara is slightly steep but it is worth the effort! Gal Vihara is actually a giant piece of rock in which four Buddha statues have been carved out. The statues are the best examples of Sinhalese carving.

Make sure to check out the standing Buddha. This statue is 7 m tall and is said to be the best statue of the four because if its facial expression. People say this is actually not Buddha but the apprentice of Buddha grieving the death of Buddha. The reclining Buddha is 14 m long.

Feet Fact: The floor is lava! Make sure to bring some socks with you because you can’t walk to the Gal Vihara otherwise.

I definitely recommend a half a day in Polonnaruwa! You can easily combine it with an elephant safari in the afternoon and have a day filled with culture and nature.

Life of a Passion